After a magical (but at times slightly windy/wet) time in Monteverde we needed something a bit more tropical, so we headed south towards the Pacific. Over the four and a half hour journey (and two minibuses), we descended from the lofty green peaks to sea-level. When we arrived in Manuel Antonio, we were greeted with warm sun on our skin. We did a quick change at the hostel, then hopped on a bus downtown. We then walked down a winding road past luxury hotels and fancy restaurants. Capuchins crossed over our heads using the telephone wires as tightropes. Eventually we turned off down a rocky path through the jungle. Five minutes later we emerged at Playa Biesanz, a hidden beach preferred by locals. We eagerly plunged into the sea. Danny and I have never been to the beach together (excluding chilly dips at Brighton and Findhorn), so it was a new experience to share. The hours melted away in a dreamy haze of coconuts and novels.
The next morning we watched a pair of Scarlet Macaws swooping against the blue horizon as we ate our breakfast. We hopped back on the bus, and wended down to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. We decided not to go for a tour this time, but instead made our own way along the trails, and stopped when we saw crowds of people gawping at something. We saw iguanas, a snake, a toucan, agoutis, squirrel monkeys, sloths, more capuchins – the jungle was bustling with life, reverberating with a steady hum occasionally accompanied by the soothing sound of waves. At a couple of viewpoints the shady jungle opened out to the ocean below.
Once we’d walked enough, we headed through the jungle to one of the two beaches located within the park. Platinum sand was bordered by emerald palms, and a glistening azure ocean. The beach was surprisingly quiet (most people stopped at the other beach, a bit closer to the main path). We relaxed on the sand – well, as much was as possible while warding off nosy capuchins who had the antisocial habit of rifling through unattended bags. We had to be dragged off the beach by a patient ranger, who blew his whistle and tapped his watch to let us know it was time to leave. Just as we were about to pass through the main gate, we noticed a large group huddled beneath a tree. We looked up and saw our first howler monkeys, munching leaves and emitting their eponymous gutteral groans. Feeling satiated with wildlife and beach, we took our leave.
Manuel Antonio has been very different to our experience of Costa Rica so far. The tropical temperatures and freshness of the Pacific breeze has eased us into a new phase of this trip. As well as experiencing the wildlife, we’ve also taken more time to relax. Our London place has slowed to a gentle mooch, and as a result we’re more aware of the life around us.
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